The most important step in prepping for exterior paint is always a pressure wash of the surfaces. The pressure washers we use blast water out at 3000 psi, so it is important to note that we typically request personal items be moved away from the house at least 6-7 feet to avoid damage. Having a clean surface is crucial to allowing the products that are applied to adhere and better encapsulate your home. Furthermore, pressure washing also removes much of the failing paint that is already flaking, peeling, or otherwise not adhering to the substrates.

Any remaining loose paint will be caught in this step. This step takes probably the most time when prepping for exterior paint. Sometimes more failing areas are uncovered during the scraping/sanding process, which is quite common, and why it’s done. The majority of the time, scraping typically suffices because of the upgraded primer we use, which will be discussed shortly. When working with rougher cuts of wood such as rough sawn, a wire brush comes in handy here instead of sanding paper. We also employ special tools during this process to produce a much better finished result.

One thing to note, if you have a home built before 1978 there is an extremely strong likelihood that it contains lead based paint. Removing this is an extremely dangerous process based on air particulates and the residue from the paint. We do not work on homes with lead present, but we know others that do. You can expect to pay a company to remove the contaminant anywhere from 2-4 times the amount a typical paint job would cost, so be aware. It is important to have your home tested, and you can buy a simple kit from Home Depot to do just that if you are unsure. 

If you are buying an older home make sure you think twice before signing that lead based paint disclosure agreement without testing the house. That reduced price on a house may seem enticing, but it will cost you later if you are not careful!

Generally speaking, everything on a home should be caulked: the cracks between trim pieces, around the soffits if there are vents present, and around windows. We also reset nail heads even if they do not need it, which is why it’s very typical to see a pattern of white dots on a home’s exterior. Caulking is another important step in prepping for exterior paint because it blocks moisture from getting into a substrate and damaging it from the inside out after a paint job is completed. On very special occasions we would also do the same for stained homes with clear or another pigmented caulk, but it is not a norm.

We almost always do this step with brushes and rollers. The reason for this is that it forces the product into the substrate, which is great for wood, and especially composite boards that are made out of compressed wood and other materials that deteriorate the fibers over time. We also generally use a product called PrimeRX Peelbond that can be viewed under our resources tab and the "our paints" section. This product can be applied very thick and heavy unlike other cheaper primers, but it also acts as an adhesive to meld with the surrounding surfaces. It’s an absolutely fantastic product, and you should definitely check it out!

Oh, the part that the majority of painters usually hate the most. Masking really does take a skill to be done quickly, efficiently, and accurately. Just like with anything in painting this takes time to get right, and most of the time entry level painters generally start here. Knowledge of the different types of tapes, their adhesion levels, and their other qualities is a necessity. A skilled masker knows how to make sure that tape adheres to the surface and doesn’t produce bleed through. This is when paint will come underneath a portion of the tape which yields a poor result and does not produce perfect lines.